The precise amount of light that triggers a change of the shutter speed is not documented in the user manual, but it is believed to be around EV The camera will refuse to fire if there is not enough light, with a red plastic flag appearing simultaneously in the viewfinder. This mechanism makes it impossible to make the error of shooting with the lens cap in place. However, the meter is still active even in this "manual" mode. Setting the aperture manually merely sets the widest permissible aperture, and the auto-exposure mechanism may still choose to set a smaller aperture than this if it sees fit.
Other than this, the camera offers no controls for setting exposure manually, though one can easily set exposure compensation by changing the film ASA dial to a higher or lower value. Ken Rockwell suspects this to be a front-element focusing Tessar. The lens provides simple zone-focusing with 4 cute distance symbols marked on the top-left of the lens. These correspond to the real distance markings on the underside of the lens: 1 meter, 1.
Zuiko 35mm f2. First Letter no. Second Letter no. Great article! I have three Trips, one early Chrome button, one later black button and, of course, the Trip Noir, which is my faithful travel companion.
Also i thought the apature settings were mainly there for when a manual flash was attached and the user then sets the appropriate f stop for the subject to distance coverage needed. Home Photography Olympus Trip 35 It is a very well known model that is reviewed positively for good reason. Highly recommended!
The original Olympus Pen from was a miracle of engineering, offering a high quality half frame camera at a price and size previously unattainable. Year of Production The Olympus Trip 35 was in production for about a decade and a half, and a common question among collectors is when was my camera made? Behind the film pressure plate on most Trips is a date code which on this camera means June The top plate is cleanly designed featuring only the bare necessities.
You can see the film door release on the far right side of the bottom plate. The Trip is wrapped in a durable vinyl body covering. Loading film into the Trip is like any other 35mm camera. Each of the 4 icons represent different distances which can be read on the opposite side of the lens.
The four stops represent the following distances: Closeup — 1m 3. With the camera in Auto mode, both 40 and shutter speeds are used, but in manual mode, only the 40 speed is used.
When there is insufficient light to make an exposure, a red flag will appear in the viewfinder which also locks the shutter release.
The viewfinder has a peep hole below the main image showing the focus distance and metering mode. My Results For my first roll through the Trip, I loaded in a fresh roll of Fuji and took it with me to the Chicago Bears training camp prior to the season, and like the Bears season turned out to be, that first roll was a disaster as I foolishly used the camera without replacing the light seals and the entire roll had major light leaks in every single image.
Like this article? Share it! Like this: Like Loading I have 3 Trips and really must rationalise and sell a couple of them.
String pull Kodak first successful point and shoot? Filters can be screwed to the A light meter is built into the Trip 35 for this purpose. The light is measured with the help of soul cells, which are mounted around the lens. The disadvantage is that they measure somewhat incorrectly over time and eventually stop working altogether.
Focusing is also manual using zone focus, for which there are meter and feet indications around the lens. You can get up to 1 meter close to your subject with the Olympus Trip The next batch of 'silver button' Trips did not have the shiny chrome hotshoe any more.
The VERY earliest Trips also had ALL four zone focus symbols in orange colour we're all familiar with the famous red 'group' symbol on most , and an ASA selection only up to , not sign of the times! These ones also did not have a 'click stop' on the infinity setting, only the other three focus settings, due to no hole being underneath that one for the little ball bearing there to pop into, which means you can easily move the focus ring off infinity if you're not careful.
AND, those earliest ones also had their leatherettes cemented on, so you can't peel them off easily like the later ones. It is these Trips just described that are the rarest of all all-orange focus symbols, no infinity click stop, shiny chrome hotshoe, max ASA, cemented leatherette , along with the black paint ones also with cemented leatherette if very early. Tripman 14 years ago. Brilliant detailed description of early Trips - many thanks. I haven't seen many of the really early ones.
It seems that quite a few cameras have had repairs and the top plate changed at some point as often the age code on the film pressure plate doesn't really match the serial number. What is the latest genuine original serial number for a chrome shutter model I wonder?
Does anyone know what internal differences there are, e. Some earlier front lens elements have a brass screw thread compared to later silver coloured metal threads. Black cameras are certainly rare - I have a couple but they are hard to find in good condition. What value should we put on totally original early and black cameras? Irish Light Posted 14 years ago. Edited by Irish Light admin 14 years ago. OK, I might as well get this all out of me here in one go, so apologies for the longevity or for anything not totally clear for anyone, like me, who's really into in this stuff!
The highest serial number on a silver button Trip I've seen is in the 2 millions, although it could be the 3 millions now that I think of it. Definitely not the 4s, as there are black buttons in the 3s. I've never seen any Trip 35 with a serial number with a higher first digit than '5'.
If there were allegedly over 10 million made, where's all the 6, 7, 8, 9 and even 10 millions serial numbers at, or did I miss something? Lowest serial number I've ever seen is ,XXX a because it had all that weird stuff like an orange group symbol etc. I don't fully understand the serial number stuff in this regard, and don't know how to find out frankly. If I start talking about internal differences between all mentioned in my above post, well I'd need a book really! Most interesting for me is there's a thin metal plate looks like bronze there over the front of the internal body later models are ALL plastic there , behind the lens board, on a I've seen inside of.
I would have no doubt that "why use 3 when 1 will do" was very much a design revision philosophy as well as "why make metal bits when we can do that all from plastic moulds cheaper" , to produce faster and save production costs as it no doubt did for the millions produced after that.
Yep, the Trip 35 got more plasticky as well as 'spartan' on the insides after the initial run of them with all that extra metal in there, but it's not a bad thing of course, and undoubtedly ensured the overall success of the camera, thank goodness!
The 'late' silver button ones 'not shiny' hotshoe were almost identical inside to the black buttons afterwards, with the main clue when you take off the top being a brass cog left there for the film counter from 'earlier times'! All black button ones I've seen have a white plastic cog in place of that brass one for the film wind mechanism, in keeping with the other plastic ones there anyway. The viewfinder cavity top seal was changed from glued on black paper which you always find detached off the walls to black electrical tape hit or miss in that regard sometime after the last of the 'late' silver buttons, as far as I can tell.
The hotshoe on those is of course black too, so if anyone ever asks how many kinds of hotshoes are on Trip 35 cameras, the answer is three shiny chrome, matte chrome, black. Oh, and the film pressure plate was held on at THREE different points on the back of the film door in the very very earliest Trips, and I've even seen one of those where there was a HUGE light seal foam up the latch end of the door on the inside of the door itself there So, alas, the original pressure plate assembly and seals configuration is something else Olympus ostensibly decided to save resources on, by ditching what I've described in favour of just the simpler 'two-pronged' approach to the plate-to-door assembly, and the only REALLY needed film door channel corner and hinge area seals up the other end, which they must have tested only at that config.
Personally I don't like Canonets in black, at any price, and therefore don't want one so will pay nothing - although I love the Trip in black, so would happily 'go the extra mile' for one of those - so there's personal taste issues also, regardess of 'rarity value' or stuff like that. And all this is not including anything like if there has been servicing done, which in the world of classic cameras, can make an ENORMOUS difference in terms of value and how much people are prepared to pay, and you can see this easily if you're in or follow the market there.
As a rule, in the world of buying and selling these or anything, people buy what they want and get what they pay for ; PS I dont think the silver buttons are actual metal, but just plastic coated in a finish that looks like they are metal.
I havent actually tried cutting one to see as such, but when out in your hands, the silver buttons feel and weigh - as far as I can tell - just like the black ones, and you can kind of tell by for example knocking on the side of one with your fingernail. When I did that first on a silver button, my gut just said "plastic"! Might not be the SAME plastic as black ones, but probably plastic nonetheless.
And one time, while I had a Trip opened up, I gave myself an instant new hairstyle by testing a flash with my bare finger on the shutter release without the button on it, which IS metal underneath the button there, and the button sits directly on it without a non-metallic buffer of some sort. So if the ACTUAL button were metal too in its entirity, not just say with a metal trunk and plastic wide bit at the bottom , well that would mean metal directly sitting on metal, which would mean Thanx a lot for those informations.
Mine is : silver button, jap character- august Edited by annoyed system member 14 years ago. Excellent run down sbjd29! I hope you've recovered from that. The 68 is undergoing explorative surgery in search of a cure for the lack of red flag. I think that all falls in line with your reasoning. Laurence farm3. Teoh 14 years ago. I think it's more likely a especially if 'N' is the factory. Otherwise, Black buttons both Maybe in Cornwall early May! Here are the specs: Serial H84 Metal shutter release.
Whaddayareckon groovers? Also: a moment to brag about. My N85 has a serial no pretty close to your H84 Metal shutter release Afraid the gold passed sticker is no longer there. Still got the original olympus pouch though, pretty worn but still keeps the trip nice and safe. Edited by cyclops35 member 14 years ago. I think the first 7-digit Trips came on stream in about '73 or '74, and still retained some characteristics of the earliest ones from '67 onwards such as shiny chrome hotshoes.
These of course have silver buttons too, and are therefore the 'early' designation along with any earlier AND subsequent silver button ones. Just had a complete CLA from Street Shooters you can find the store on ebay - ireland would recommend to anyone. Yeah, I'm fairly sure from what you've said and from the exhaustive and fascinating info from sbjd29 that my H84 is a 78, not a High serial, non-shiny hotshoe and red group button give it away, it would seem.
Do we know when the black shutter button became the norm. It's not 'exhaustive' yet, but I'm working on it still can't pin down a year to answer simon's question above, but if it's the '70s for first black buttons, it's probably no earlier than very late '70s. I've seen silver buttons in the mids, and I'm not sure yet if there was a production overlap. Earliest I've seen to date! Maclaine Diemer 14 years ago. N98 August, Only a couple years older than me.
Pretty cool. I love this little thing.
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